Istanbul – the non touristy way : Tarihi Karadeniz


Continuing the series: Istanbul – the non touristy way, today I present to you one of the best döner places in Istanbul, Tarihi Karadeniz  pide ve döner salonu . It is a small place in Besiktas neighborhood, that makes one huge döner  everyday and closes when it’s finished, so if you go there in the evening most probably you will find the place already closed. It is the only kebap place in that area where there is always a queue, so I think you believe me that it’s a truly delicious one.

When we ate there the meat was almost finished, actually after they served us they stopped the people who were trying to get in queue, but in the beginning of the day it looks like this:

Oh, yeah. That huge. 🙂

If you go there, you must try this delicious  döner together with the house ayran. IMG_4736-2  IMG_4802-3 IMG_4811-4  IMG_4727-2


Address : Sinanpaşa Mah. Mumcu Bakkal Sok. No:6, Beşiktaş, Istanbul 34330

Istanbul, the non touristy way: Lades

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Continuing the series “Istanbul – the non touristy way” today : Lades.

Lades Menemen is a little breakfast restaurant located on one of the little streets near to the highly touristic and crowded Istiklal street. Even if in this area, it is one of the most Turkish frequented places around, with a no muss-no fuss type of attitude.

Go there for breakfast at any time of day 🙂 and expect to be the best one you will ever have in Istanbul. You can order a Pastırmalı Menemen  (this is a turkish -pastrami menemen) or even a Sucuklu one if you prefer it. I like to order peynir- pastırma Menemen, which contains also with cheese. Whatever type of menemen you choose, be sure to order also a complete breakfast( Komple Kahvaltı )  – this includes a mix of tomatoes and fresh peppers, olives with cheese and of course, the best breakfast of earth mix – honey and kaymak.( Honey and kaymak is eaten the same way as honey and butter, by spreading them on bread. )For two person, a complete breakfast and a menemen each is more than enough. Be a little turkish and order turkish tea and, even if you had a hard night, everything will be right with the world again. 😉

All the menemen types are 10 TL (except the simple one which is 6 TL)  and the Komple Kahvaltı – 14 TL .

If you don’t know what menemen is go here. Although I shared with you the original recipe, that all the turskish that I know make in their homes, the lades one is different, more gooey and the most delicious menemen I have ever had. I am trying currenly to achieve the same taste and texture, and when I will get close I will share with you the recipe.

But, if you will find yourself in Istanbul, don’t miss this place, because it will become one of your best memories.

Happiness is found in the small things, like sharing a good breakfst sometimes! 🙂

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Address: Şht. Muhtar Mh., İstiklal Cd, No:14, Beyoğlu

Istanbul, the non touristy way: Üsküdar – Kanaat Locantasi

Because  I am in Istanbul for a while living together with my Turkish family, I thought I would share with you some of the-ouside-of-the-touristic-path places to eat and experience, that are truly authentic and delicious.

Today, Üsküdar.

The district of Üsküdar is one of Istanbul’s oldest-established residential areas. Being just a ferry ride away from the European side, and cheaper, it is the residential area of choice of many people, including numerous students. If you will go, you will witness first-hand the daily commute of the people working or studying on the other side of the Bosphorus, while admiring the spectacular view that they are just unbelievably lucky to see everyday.

Usually Üsküdar is not visited by many tourists, and it is, if you like this kind of approach, one of the places you can have the real Turkish experience, away from the touristic path.  Very near to the ferry station of Üsküdar, (which can be reached with a short ferry trip from any of the European-side ferry stations), there is a market where you can find anything, from spices and pickles, fresh vegetables, meat and fish. I recommend to you to buy some domates salçası – tomato paste and Biber salçası – pepper paste  (aci biber if you prefer hot). You can use them in your home-made food and believe me they will make it taste terrific. The ones my Turkish mother-in-law always buys are the ones sold by kilo in the market, not the store already pre-packed types, as they are more delicious, so I am doing the same.

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Turkish people have a proverbial commercial talent, and even if they will not speak your language they will find a way to be of service. So, if you are interested in acquiring some specific Turkish goodies, here is a better priced, less tourist- oriented therefore more authentic option.


On the main street coming from the ferry station, Selmanipak Caddesi,  there is the Kanaat Locantasi, a family restaurant is famous in Istanbul that I recommend you visit for a hearty Turkish traditional meal.

Depending on your available time, you can start with a selection of some of the house meze (appetizers) or  a Turkish çorba, continue with a meat main course – lamb is particularly good here, or you can choose a traditional home-made course option like kurufasulye or nohut accompanied by pilav and the house ayran. Whatever you eat, it is guaranteed by the many returning Turkish customers (the place is packed almost all day) that you will have a genuine experience. Oh, and do try the house sweets, they are fresh and delicious!

Keep in mind, being an authentic Turkish place means it is not a fancy one, as the people here enjoy the simple pleasures of life.

The staff is speaking good-enough English to be of service, also the menus have English translation. But the best part is that you can see the food and choose what you want to eat. Being a more traditional place, keep in mind that here you won’t find alcohol in the menu, and you need to pay in cash.

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Hope you can take advantage more of your next trip to Istanbul, and if you have any questions, ask me in the comments and I will do my best to answer.

To be continued… 🙂